Genetics is a factor in the texture and growth rate of a dog’s haircoat.
Nothing will produce a coat of show quality if the genetic potential does not exist. However, the dog owner can do much to help a dog’s haircoat achieve its full potential and to keep it in good condition: feed a good quality nutritionally complete and balanced dog food; keep the dog free of internal and external parasites and maintain a regular grooming schedule with the appropriate grooming equipment.
Grooming your dog not only helps him look his best at all times, but also helps keep him clean and healthy.
Grooming sessions are an excellent time to assess your dog’s health. Learn what is normal for your dog, what characteristics distinguish him. Changes in appearance or behavior may be signs of illness. If a dog displays constant problems such as itching, sudden loss of hair, inflamed areas, any signs of tenderness or lumps under the skin, a veterinarian should be consulted.
A dog who is accustomed to grooming will be more at ease when he is examined or treated by a veterinarian.
The kind of grooming routine you establish for your dog will depend on how much time the dog spends outside, weather conditions and whether the dog is a longhaired or shorthaired breed.
Shorthaired breeds should be groomed two to three times a week. Longhaired breeds require daily grooming. Many terrier breeds require periodic plucking to remove dead hairs and to give them a trim appearance with careful brushing and combing between pluckings.
If your dog’s haircoat requires complicated grooming, you may want to have it done professionally. However, trips to the groomer’s are not adequate to maintain a healthy, handsome haircoat. Your dog still needs to be brushed and combed regularly between professional grooming sessions.
Grooming A Puppy
Early in life a puppy should learn that grooming can be a pleasant experience. A puppy is easy to handle, and in a few months, with the proper training, he will be used to regular grooming. Begin with short grooming sessions. Reassure the puppy and praise him. As you repeat the daily grooming, accustom the puppy to opening his mouth for inspection and having his ears and paws handled. Later, when his teeth and ears need cleaning and his nails clipped, he won’t resist this care.
You may acquire a puppy or a young dog who resists grooming. Chances are, he had a bad experience and he will have to be shown, with considerable patience on your part, that there is nothing to fear.
Establish A Grooming Routine
While there is no set time that is best to groom a dog, it is not a good idea to handle any dog, especially a young puppy immediately after he has eaten. Nor can a young puppy or even an older dog be expected to stand quietly for grooming when he has to go outside to relieve himself.
If the puppy tends to resist grooming, avoid chasing the puppy. This has only negative effects: the puppy may become even more resistant to grooming or he may interpret chasing as an invitation to play.
Plan time for grooming when you can give the dog your full attention. The place should be one that is convenient for you, has good light and is free from distractions. Have your grooming tools assembled and within easy reach.
Establish and follow a specific order in grooming and follow this order. This helps ensure that the dog will be completely groomed and no part of the routine will be missed.
Placing the dog on a table usually makes the job easier. Choose a sturdy table which places the dog at a comfortable height for you. Place a rubber non-skid mat on the table to give your dog secure footing. If it is feasible, you may want to do what professional groomers do. Place a mirror where you can observe your dog from another perspective as you groom him.
If you have several dogs or groom dogs for show, you may prefer a professional grooming table available through pet supply stores and catalogs.
After each grooming thoroughly wash, rinse and dry the grooming equipment.
Brushing Is Basic
All dogs should be brushed. Brushing is basic to maintaining a clean and healthy coat. Frequent brushing loosens and removes scale, dirt and dead hair; distributes the natural oils throughout the coat and helps prevent tangles in long hair. How often this should be done and how much times it takes depends upon the haircoat of the individual dog. However, brushing every day is recommended during spring and fall when shedding can be very heavy to help control loose hair. Always brush the dog before bathing to remove dead hair and mays from the coats of longhair dogs.
A brush with natural bristles is popular for removing dead hair. Use a brush with correct bristle length - short for medium and shorthaired dogs, long for longhaired dogs. Another option for many medium and longhaired breeds is a brush with fine bent-wire teeth called a “slicker” or “carder.” For shorthaired breeds a hound mitt with short bristles on one side that you can slip over your hand is very effective. Brushes and other grooming equip-ment are available at pet shops and knowledgeable pet shop personnel can help you make the appropriate choice for your dog’s type of coat.
It’s important to get the brush down to the skin as massaging action helps loosen and remove dandruff flakes. Most longhaired breeds are brushed in layers from the skin outward. Then brush with the lay of the hair for the final touch.
A dog is not groomed if only his back and upper body are brushed. Train the dog to lie on either side and lift its front and then its back legs for underbody brushing. This is particularly important for longhaired dogs because mats often develop in this area. Some dogs object to this and it is necessary to experiment with the most satisfactory way to handle them. Sometimes resting the dog’s foot in the palm of the hand and using gentle strokes solves the problem. Some dogs may like to lie on their back or only one side. Others never like this aspect of grooming no matter how they are handled. If this is the case, be firm and let the dog know this step in the grooming procedure must be followed. Be as gentle and quick as possible, praise the dog for being good and reward him with a treat such as Purina ® Bonz dog snacks or Purina ® Dog Biscuits.
Mats and Tangles
If a longhaired dog is not groomed daily, mats and tangles can be a serious problem. Sometimes tangles can be brushed out. If the coat is matted, try using your fingers to pull the mat apart and then brush the hair in place. If the mat cannot be worked apart with the fingers, grooming preparations are available that lubricate the mats so they are easier to comb out. If combing will not work, the mats must be cut off. Gently pull the mat away from the dog’s body, then carefully cut the hair between the mat and the skin. Blunt-edge scissors are recommended to help prevent injuring the dog if he should wiggle during the cutting procedure.
Fleas and Ticks
As you groom your dog, check for fleas and ticks. Brush the haircoat upwards to expose specks on the skin surface. Fleas are diagnosed by finding either the parasites or black specks (flea excrement), sometimes called “flea dirt” on the dog’s haircoat. Many preparations on the market including sprays, powders, shampoos or dips can help rid your dog of fleas. Just be certain the label states the product is safe for dogs. Or you can ask your veterinarian to recommend an appropriate product.
If you use a flea powder or spray, starting the application at the dog’s head and working backward is recommended. Spray and apply the dust into the haircoat and between the toes and footpads. Be especially careful to avoid the eyes. Always read and follow label directions.
Although fleas feed on a dog’s blood, they spend most of their time off the dog. Therefore it is necessary to treat both a dog and his surroundings for effective flea control.
Ticks can appear as small, flat beetle-like bugs or a tan-colored bean when they are engorged with blood. They adhere firmly to the dog’s body and must be carefully extracted. This can be done with tweezers or by fingers protected with a paper towel, tissue or rubber gloves. Twisting or jerking may cause part of the mouth parts to break off in the skin, possibly causing chronic irritation. Disinfect the bite and wash the hands thoroughly.
Bathing
Dogs should be bathed when they look dirty and/or have a strong doggy odor. Puppies or small dogs can be bathed in sinks and tubs while large breeds may require bathtubs. (After bathing your dog, be sure to scrub and disinfect the area prior to human use.) If the weather is warm, a child’s wading pool and garden hose may be used. Have your dog’s shampoo or soap, brush and comb and towels nearby before you begin. Place the dog in the tub and soak the dog through to the skin. Use a shampoo that is pH balanced for dogs. If your dog has a special skin problem, ask your veterinarian to recommend a shampoo. Two shampoos ( the first shampoo to loosen dirt and the second shampoo to remove it), each followed by a thorough rinsing with warm water, not hot water, should be sufficient to get your dog clean.
Let the dog “drip dry” for a few minutes as you squeeze the excess water out of the coat. Put him on the ground or on a table, cover with a dry towel and squeeze the coat until most of the water has been absorbed. Begin to brush dry. A hair dryer may be held about 12 inches away from the coat to aid in the drying process. Move the dryer and the brush over the entire surface of the dog so the coat dries evenly. Never let a wet dog outside in cold weather or expose him to drafts. Keep him away from areas where he can get dirty before he dries completely.
Dry Baths
Sometimes it is best to avoid using soap and water - especially during extremely cold weather, when the puppy is very young or when a dog is convalescing. Preparations for giving your dog a dry bath are available in most pet shops. These products may be rubbed into the coat and brushed out. Be sure to follow the directions on the label.
Care of the Ears
Check your dog’s ears regularly. If the inside of the ear flap looks dirty, it can be cleaned gently with a small piece of cotton wrapped around a fingertip and moistened with mineral oil. Look for dirt, cuts, scratches, swelling parasites, discharge and an unpleasant odor. Clean off wax deposits carefully with a cotton-tipped swab dipped in mineral or baby oil. To avoid possible injury, never probe deep into the ear. If you discover dried blood, scabs or a thick discharge, consult your veterinarian.
Dogs with long hair or long ears sometimes get a heavy growth of hair on the undersides of their ears or at the opening of the inner ear which can collect dirt and eventually impair hearing. This excess hair should be removed by a professional.
Care of the Eyes
Any dried matter in the corners of the dog’s eyes should be gently cleaned away with a wash cloth or cotton swab moistened with warm water. Be careful not to rub over the eye with cotton as the fibers can cause irritation.
During grooming sessions, check your dog’s eyes for any signs of irritation or other problems. His eyes should be clear and bright, and the area around the eyeball should be white. Any red spots or apparent damage should receive immediate attention. Discharge from the corners of the eyes should be considered serious if a mild solution of boric acid does not correct the situation. Excessive discharge, other abnormal conditions or injury to the eye require prompt treatment by a veterinarian.
Nail Care
Keeping your dog’s nails clipped to the proper length is essential for good feet. Because dogs do not wear down their nails, it is your responsibility to trim them regularly. Or, if you find this difficult, ask your veterinarian or a professional groomer to do the trimming. Excessively long nails can damage the feet, making walking and running painful. In extreme cases, the dog becomes lame. How often the nails should be trimmed depends upon how fast your dog's nails grow.
Puppies have needle-sharp nails and clipping the points off is not only good practice for future clipping, but it also accustoms the puppy to this procedure. Nail clippers, available at pet supply stores, should be among the first items to buy and use on a new puppy. If necessary, ask your veterinarian to show you how to do it.
In clipping nails, cut the tips only and do not cut too far back where you may hit a vein, causing it to bleed. If this should happen, a moistened styptic pencil usually stops the bleeding. Or you can press a cotton ball against the end of the nail with a dab of petroleum jelly. If the bleeding continues or is excessive, consult your veterinarian.
Be Alert for Foot Problems
Each time you groom your dog, examine its foot pads for the presence of foreign objects, cuts or punctures. Cuts should be cleaned with soap and water and treated with an antiseptic.
During winter months, snow, ice, salt or other chemical de-icers on icy streets as well as mud can injure a dog’s feet. When your dog comes inside, clean the paws to remove mud and salt particles and treat the pads for cuts from sharp edges of ice. Clean with soap and water and apply an antiseptic.
Dogs housed outdoors should have their paws inspected regularly and treated when necessary.
During summer months or when a dog is being hunted in the field, inspect the paws for thorns which should be carefully removed with tweezers. Then apply an antiseptic.
Dental Care
Dental care is another important aspect of grooming your dog. Plaque and calculus buildup begins to form on a dog’s teeth after it is one year of age, particularly if soft pet foods are fed. Food bacteria and saliva accumulate and adhere to the tooth surface, forming a soft plaque. If plaque buildup continues, chalk-like materials form a hardened dental calculus on the tooth surface. If left unchecked, plaque and calculus buildup can eventually cause inflammation of the gums (gingivitis) and of the membrane lining of the tooth socket (periodontitis).
Some dogs will allow regular brushing of their teeth. Use a mixture of baking soda with a little water added to form a paste or a toothpaste formulated specifically for dogs. Apply with a soft toothbrush or a piece of gauze wrapped around the finger. Do not use toothpaste formulated for humans because dogs swallow, rather than spit out the preparation, causing stomach upset.
Your dog should receive regular dental examinations by your veterinarian. A good time for this is during the yearly physical examination when vaccinations are given.
Other Considerations
In addition to regular grooming, a dog owner should be aware that a dog’s environment or a management problem may be affecting the quality of a dog’s haircoat.
A dry, brittle haircoat and hair loss may result from low humidity. Indoor housing where humidity is always low is a good example. Too frequent bathing also dries out the skin and haircoat.
Dietary imbalance such as excessive feeding of table scraps or extended feeding of imbalanced pet foods (those recommended for intermittent feeding only) can result in poor haircoat. Feeding a nutritionally complete and balanced dog food such as Purina® Dog Chow® brand dog food or Purina® brand Hi Pro Dog Meal helps ensure a healthy haircoat that is enhanced by regular grooming.
Special Grooming Problems
Summertime Cautions:
A dog’s haircoat serves as an insulator against the heat. For this reason, a longhaired dog should never be shaved or clipped during the summer.
After a day at the beach with your dog, rinse him with clean warm water. Salt water can irritate his skin.
When dogs are in fields or wooded areas, burrs may adhere to the dog’s haircoat and, if not removed, cause skin irritation. Burrs are easier to remove if they are first saturated with vaseline, mineral oil or olive oil and then carefully worked out by hand, using the thumb and forefinger.
Foreign Substances:
To remove chewing gum, rub an ice cube over the gum until the gum becomes brittle and easy to pull out. Or rub peanut butter into the area where the gum is imbedded and let it remain a few minutes. Then comb or work the gum out of the haircoat with your fingers.
To remove tar from the feet, rub butter, margarine or vegetable shortening into the affected areas and let it remain until the tar softens and can be pulled out. Or soften the tarred areas by soaking them in warm water, then in mineral oil. Repeat until the tar loosens and pulls out easily. Then wash and rinse the feet thoroughly.
To remove water-base paint, wash the dog repeatedly with warm water and a shampoo recommended for dogs as soon as possible. If the dog has brushed against oil-based paint, treat the paint-soaked hair as promptly as possible. Fresh paint should be wiped off with dry cloths and then washed with warm water and a shampoo for dogs. Dried paint should be cut off with blunt scissors and the remaining hair washed and rinsed several times.
Caution: Do not use paint removers, kerosene, turpen-tine or gasoline because they may severely irritate the skin.
The Importance of Early Training: Dogs who have been accustomed to grooming are more likely to cooperate when time-consuming procedures are needed to remove foreign substances. Praise your dog for his cooperation and reward him with a treat.
